Frozen Pipes

Catching frozen pipes early gives you the best chance of thawing them before they burst. Watch for these warning signs whenever temperatures drop below freezing.

Early Warning Signs

• Reduced water flow: Faucets produce only a trickle when opened fully, indicating partial freezing
• No water at all: Turning on a faucet produces nothing, not even a drip
• Selective freezing: One faucet or bathroom works while another doesn't
• Frost on exposed pipes: Visible ice crystals or frost coating pipes in unheated areas
• Strange smells: Blocked pipes can cause sewage gases to back up through drains
• Bulging pipes: Visible swelling or distortion along exposed pipe sections

Signs of Burst Pipes

• Water stains appearing on ceilings or walls
• Puddles forming around the base of walls or under sinks
• Sound of running water when all fixtures are shut off
• Suddenly wet carpet or flooring without obvious source
• Water pressure drops throughout the entire house
• Water meter continues spinning with all fixtures closed

Step 1: Identify the Frozen Section

Turn on all faucets slightly to identify which ones aren't producing water. This tells you which supply lines are frozen. Check exposed pipes in unheated areas for visible frost, ice, or bulging. Follow affected pipes back toward their source to find the frozen section, typically where pipes pass through exterior walls, unheated spaces, or areas with cold air exposure.

Step 2: Open Faucets

Open both hot and cold faucets connected to the frozen pipe. This serves two critical purposes: it relieves pressure as ice melts, reducing burst risk, and lets you know immediately when you've successfully thawed the blockage. Leave faucets open throughout the thawing process.

Step 3: Apply Heat Safely

For exposed pipes, use an electric heating pad wrapped around the frozen section, a hair dryer on low-medium setting, or a portable electric space heater placed nearby (never left unattended). Keep heat sources moving; don't concentrate heat on one spot. Start closest to the faucet and work back toward the coldest section. For pipes behind walls, increase room temperature with space heaters or turn up central heating. Place a heat lamp near the affected area.

Step 4: Alternative Thawing Method

Soak towels in hot (not boiling) water and wrap them around frozen pipe sections. Replace towels every 5-10 minutes as they cool. This gentler approach works well for plastic pipes where heat guns might cause damage. You can also use hot water bottles or chemical heat packs designed for muscle injuries, placed directly on pipes.

Step 5: Check for Damage

Once water flows normally, inspect the entire length of pipe that was frozen. Look for cracks, splits, or weeping joints. Check surrounding areas for water damage or moisture. Even tiny pinhole leaks can cause major damage over time. If you find any leaks, shut off water to that section immediately and call a plumber.

When DIY Isn't Appropriate

Don't attempt DIY thawing if pipes are completely inaccessible behind finished walls or ceilings. Call professionals immediately if you hear water running behind walls or see signs of active leaking. Situations with frozen main water lines require professional equipment. If outdoor temperatures remain below freezing and you can't maintain thawing progress, professional help prevents the pipe from refreezing before you finish.

Professional plumbers bring specialized equipment and expertise that dramatically speeds up the thawing process while minimizing damage risk. They start by locating all frozen sections using infrared thermometers that detect temperature differences through walls. This technology identifies problem areas without destructive investigation.

Professional Thawing Methods

Plumbers use electric pipe thawing machines that send low-voltage, high-amperage current through metal pipes. The electrical resistance generates heat throughout the entire frozen section simultaneously, thawing from inside out within 30-90 minutes. For plastic pipes or situations where electric thawing isn't suitable, they use steamers that inject hot steam directly into pipes, melting ice rapidly without risking over-heating.

Hot water circulation systems pump heated water through affected lines at controlled rates. This method works for both metal and plastic pipes without electrical hazards. For completely inaccessible pipes, professionals may cut access panels in strategic locations, thaw the section, make any needed repairs, then patch walls properly.

Damage Assessment and Repair

After thawing, plumbers pressure-test the system to locate any cracks or damaged sections before they become active leaks. They use camera inspection for pipes that can't be visually examined. Burst sections get cut out and replaced with new pipe, using appropriate joining methods for your pipe material. They check pipe hangers and supports, as ice expansion sometimes pulls pipes loose from mounting brackets.

Prevention Recommendations

Before leaving your home, professionals install permanent solutions to prevent future freezing. This includes adding pipe insulation in vulnerable areas, installing heat tape or heat cables that activate during cold weather, and relocating pipes away from exterior walls when feasible. They identify locations where adding small circulation pumps prevents water from sitting stagnant long enough to freeze. You'll receive a detailed report showing all vulnerable areas and recommended upgrades.

Preventing frozen pipes is infinitely cheaper and less stressful than dealing with the aftermath. These strategies protect your plumbing during cold weather.

Before Cold Weather Arrives

• Insulate exposed pipes: Wrap pipes in unheated areas with foam pipe insulation (costs $1-3 per foot)
• Seal air leaks: Caulk gaps around pipes where they penetrate exterior walls
• Disconnect outdoor hoses: Drain and store hoses, then shut off interior valves to outdoor faucets
• Drain sprinkler systems: Blow out irrigation lines with compressed air, or hire professionals
• Install freeze-proof hose bibs: Replace standard outdoor faucets with freeze-resistant models
• Service heating systems: Ensure your furnace works reliably before winter hits

During Cold Snaps

Let faucets drip slowly (pencil-lead thickness) on exterior walls during extreme cold. Running water, even at a trickle, doesn't freeze as easily as standing water. Open cabinet doors under sinks to let warm room air circulate around pipes. Keep your thermostat at 55°F minimum, even when you're away. Close garage doors if water pipes run through the garage.

For Vacant Properties

If leaving your home vacant during winter, you have two options: maintain heat at 55°F minimum with someone checking daily, or winterize completely. Winterizing means shutting off the main water supply, draining all pipes by opening every faucet (including tub and shower), flushing toilets and adding antifreeze to toilet bowls and all drain traps, draining the water heater, and having your sprinkler system professionally blown out.

Permanent Solutions

• Heat tape or heat cables: Install self-regulating heating cables on vulnerable pipes
• Pipe relocation: Move pipes from exterior walls to interior locations during renovations
• Add insulation: Improve wall insulation in areas where pipes run
• Install recirculation pumps: Keep water moving in problem areas
• Smart monitoring systems: Install temperature sensors that alert you when pipes reach freezing risk

Frozen pipe costs range from minimal for simple thawing to catastrophic when burst pipes flood your home. Prevention remains far cheaper than repairs.

Professional Thawing Services

• Service call and basic thawing: $200-500
• Accessible frozen pipes (exposed): $150-300
• Pipes behind walls (accessible): $300-600
• Electric thawing equipment: $400-800
• Steam thawing service: $500-1,000
• Emergency/after-hours service: Add $150-300
• Multiple locations throughout home: $600-1,500

Pipe Repair and Replacement

• Simple burst repair (accessible): $150-400
• Cut and replace pipe section: $200-600 per section
• Multiple burst locations: $500-2,500
• Wall or ceiling access required: Add $200-500 per opening
• Drywall repair and painting: $300-1,000
• Extensive repiping: $1,500-5,000+

Water Damage Restoration

• Water extraction and drying: $1,000-4,000
• Carpet replacement: $3-8 per square foot
• Hardwood floor refinishing: $3-10 per square foot
• Drywall replacement: $50-100 per sheet installed
• Insulation replacement: $1.50-3.50 per square foot
• Mold remediation: $500-6,000 depending on extent
• Total restoration (major flooding): $5,000-20,000+

Prevention Costs

• Foam pipe insulation (DIY): $1-3 per linear foot
• Heat tape/cable: $10-25 per linear foot installed
• Freeze-proof hose bib: $50-150 installed
• Winterization service (vacant home): $150-300
• Temperature monitoring system: $100-400
• Professional pipe insulation: $3-10 per foot
• Pipe relocation during remodel: $500-2,000 per section

Insurance Considerations

Homeowner's insurance typically covers sudden pipe bursts from freezing, minus your deductible (usually $500-2,500). However, coverage often excludes damage occurring in vacant homes unless you maintained heat or winterized properly. Some policies deny claims if the home was vacant for more than 30-60 days without proper precautions. Insurance may not cover the plumbing repair itself, only water damage to structures and contents.

True Cost of Neglect

A single burst pipe running 4-8 gallons per minute causes 240-480 gallons of flooding per hour. If it runs all day while you're at work, that's 2,000-4,000 gallons destroying your home. Insurance claims for frozen pipe damage average $5,000-15,000. Compare that to spending $200-500 on prevention (insulation, heat tape, winterizing) and the economics become obvious. Even basic prevention like letting faucets drip costs a few dollars in water versus thousands in repairs.