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Water Heaters
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Tankless Water Heater Installation Guide

Professional guide for tankless water heater installation. Covers gas line sizing, electrical requirements, venting, and water connections for on-demand hot water.

Estimated Time

6-10 hours

Tools Required

9 items

Materials Needed

9 items

Tankless water heaters provide endless hot water on demand while using 24-34% less energy than traditional tank water heaters for homes that use 41 gallons or less of hot water daily. These compact units heat water only when you need it, eliminating standby energy losses from keeping 40-50 gallons of water hot around the clock.

However, tankless water heater installation is significantly more complex than tank water heater replacement. Gas models typically require larger gas lines (often upgrading from 1/2-inch to 3/4-inch or 1-inch), special venting through exterior walls or roofs, and precise combustion air requirements. Electric tankless heaters usually demand dedicated 240V circuits with substantial amperage (often 100-150 amps total), which may require electrical panel upgrades.

Because of these complexities and safety concerns with gas lines and high-voltage electrical work, professional installation is strongly recommended for tankless water heaters. Professional installation costs $2,500-4,500 including the unit, compared to $1,000-1,500 for tank water heaters. This guide provides detailed information for understanding the process, though most homeowners should hire licensed professionals.

Safety Precautions

  • NEVER work on gas lines without proper training and licensing - gas leaks can cause explosions
  • Electric tankless heaters require high-amperage circuits that can be lethal - hire a licensed electrician
  • Turn off gas at the meter and electricity at the main panel before any work
  • Check all work with appropriate inspections as required by code
  • Ensure proper venting to prevent carbon monoxide buildup with gas units
  • Never operate a gas tankless heater without proper combustion air supply
  • Install carbon monoxide detectors near the installation
  • Have proper fire extinguishers rated for gas and electrical fires available

Tools Required

  • Pipe wrench
  • Gas line tools
  • Drill with masonry bits
  • Level
  • Screwdriver set
  • Voltage tester
  • Pipe cutter
  • Tape measure
  • Stud finder

Materials Needed

  • Tankless water heater
  • Gas line piping (if gas model)
  • Electrical wiring and breaker (if electric)
  • Venting system
  • Water supply lines
  • Shut-off valves
  • Mounting brackets
  • Sediment filter
  • Pressure relief valve

Preparation

Size Your Tankless Water Heater Properly

Unlike tank water heaters sized by capacity, tankless units are sized by flow rate (gallons per minute) and temperature rise. Calculate your peak demand by adding simultaneous uses: typical shower (2.5 GPM) plus washing machine (2 GPM) plus dishwasher (1.5 GPM) = 6 GPM minimum capacity needed. Calculate temperature rise by subtracting your incoming groundwater temperature from your desired output temperature (typically 120°F). Colder climates need more powerful units to achieve adequate temperature rise.

Gas Line Requirements

Gas tankless water heaters have significantly higher BTU demands than tank heaters (150,000-200,000 BTU vs 40,000 BTU). This almost always requires upgrading your gas line size. A 1/2-inch gas line that adequately served a tank heater won't provide sufficient gas flow for tankless operation. Expect to run 3/4-inch or 1-inch gas lines, which requires professional gas plumber work.

Electrical Requirements for Electric Models

Electric tankless water heaters for whole-house use typically require 100-150 amps at 240V, which is more power than most homes have available. This often necessitates electrical service upgrades costing $1,000-3,000 additional. Multiple smaller tankless units for point-of-use applications are often more practical than one whole-house electric unit.

Venting Considerations

Gas tankless heaters require Category III stainless steel venting (concentric or separate intake/exhaust). These special venting materials cost significantly more than standard water heater vents. Indoor units vent horizontally through an exterior wall or vertically through the roof. Outdoor units (available in mild climates) don't require venting but need freeze protection.

Installation Steps

1

Remove Existing Water Heater and Prepare Location

Turn off gas or electricity and water supply to your existing water heater. Drain the old unit completely using a garden hose connected to the drain valve. Disconnect gas lines, water lines, and venting (if gas). Remove the old water heater.

Tankless units mount on walls and take much less space than tank heaters. Choose a location near existing gas and water lines but with access to exterior walls for venting. The unit needs adequate clearance around it for combustion air and service access - typically 6-12 inches on all sides.

Install sturdy mounting brackets rated for the weight of the unit plus water (60-100 pounds total). Use lag bolts into wall studs, not just drywall anchors. Ensure the wall can support the weight and vibration.

Warning:

  • Gas line work requires licensed plumbers in most jurisdictions
  • Never reuse old flexible gas connectors - they deteriorate over time
2

Run New Gas Line (for Gas Models)

This step absolutely requires a licensed professional. The new gas line must be properly sized based on the tankless heater's BTU rating and the length of the gas run. Longer runs require larger pipe diameters to maintain adequate pressure.

The gas line installation includes: cutting and capping the old line, running new correctly-sized pipe from the gas meter or main line, installing a new gas shut-off valve within 6 feet of the heater, pressure testing the entire gas system, and checking for leaks with soap solution at every connection.

Gas line work must be inspected and approved by building officials in most areas. Never skip this inspection - gas leaks are deadly.

3

Install Venting System (for Gas Models)

Gas tankless heaters require special concentric venting or separate intake and exhaust vents. The venting typically exits through an exterior wall within a few feet of the unit. Carefully measure and cut the hole through the exterior wall at the manufacturer-specified location.

Install the vent termination on the exterior with proper flashing and sealing to prevent water infiltration. The vent must terminate at least 4 feet from windows, doors, or air intakes, and follow specific clearance requirements from corners and overhangs.

Connect the vent piping to the water heater according to manufacturer specifications. The connections must be airtight to prevent combustion gases from entering living spaces. Most systems use special clamps or adhesives rated for high-temperature exhaust.

Install the combustion air intake if using a separate intake/exhaust system. Proper combustion air is critical for safe and efficient operation.

Warning:

  • Improper venting can cause carbon monoxide poisoning - follow manufacturer specifications exactly
  • Only use approved venting materials - standard PVC will melt from the exhaust heat
4

Connect Water Lines and Install Isolation Valves

Install shut-off valves on both the cold water inlet and hot water outlet - these isolation valves make future maintenance much easier. Many manufacturers require these valves to maintain warranty coverage.

Connect the cold water supply line to the inlet using appropriate fittings. Most tankless heaters require 3/4-inch water lines for adequate flow, though some smaller units accept 1/2-inch connections.

Install a sediment filter on the cold water inlet if your water has any sediment or if required by the manufacturer. Sediment is the leading cause of tankless water heater failure, clogging the heat exchanger.

Connect the hot water outlet line that distributes heated water throughout your home. Use flexible connectors or appropriate hard piping based on your preference and local codes.

Install a pressure and temperature relief valve if one isn't built into the unit. The discharge pipe must run to a safe discharge location.

Pro Tips:

  • Install a recirculation pump for instant hot water if you have long pipe runs
  • Consider installing a mixing valve to prevent scalding from the high-temperature output
  • Take photos during disassembly for reference during reassembly
5

Complete Electrical Connections and Test

For gas tankless heaters, connect the 120V power supply for the control board and ignition. This typically requires a dedicated 15-amp circuit. Use a GFCI outlet or GFCI breaker for the circuit.

For electric tankless heaters, make 240V high-amperage connections following all electrical codes. This absolutely requires a licensed electrician due to the danger involved and code requirements. Multiple large breakers feed the heating elements.

Fill the water heater by opening the cold water supply and hot water taps. Check all connections for leaks. Once full, turn on the gas or electrical supply.

Program the unit according to manufacturer instructions, setting your desired output temperature (typically 120°F). Modern tankless heaters have digital controls for temperature, flow rate, and diagnostics.

Test the unit by opening hot water taps and letting the heater fire up. Gas heaters should ignite smoothly without excessive noise. Monitor the exhaust vent for proper operation. Test multiple fixtures simultaneously to ensure the unit meets demand.

Pro Tips:

  • Set temperature no higher than 120°F for safety and efficiency
  • Perform a combustion analysis if required by manufacturer or code
  • Register the unit with the manufacturer for warranty coverage

Common Mistakes to Avoid

  • Undersizing the unit for household demand - This causes temperature fluctuations and cold water sandwiches
  • Not upgrading the gas line adequately - Insufficient gas flow prevents proper operation
  • Using incorrect venting materials - This creates serious safety hazards
  • Skipping the sediment filter - This leads to premature heat exchanger failure
  • Not providing adequate combustion air - This causes incomplete combustion and potential carbon monoxide production
  • Installing without proper permits and inspections - This violates codes and voids warranties
  • Attempting DIY installation without proper gas fitting or electrical licensing
  • Not flushing the heat exchanger annually - Scale buildup destroys efficiency and shortens lifespan

Tips and Tricks

  • Outdoor models avoid venting costs but require freeze protection in cold climates
  • Multiple smaller units often work better than one large unit for homes with distant bathrooms
  • Point-of-use electric tankless heaters work well for single fixtures without whole-house installation complexity
  • Schedule professional maintenance annually to maintain warranty and efficiency
  • Keep detailed records of installation and maintenance for warranty claims
  • Install a recirculation system to eliminate the wait for hot water
  • Consider a small electric tankless as a booster for solar water heating systems

When to Call a Professional

Professional installation is strongly recommended for all tankless water heaters. You MUST call a professional if:

  • Your installation involves any gas line work - This requires licensed gas fitters in most jurisdictions
  • You need electrical service upgrades or high-amperage wiring - Licensed electricians must perform this work
  • You're installing a whole-house electric tankless heater requiring 100+ amp circuits
  • The installation requires running new venting through walls or roof
  • Local codes require licensed contractor installation (very common for gas appliances)
  • You lack experience with plumbing, gas fitting, or electrical work
  • The manufacturer requires professional installation to maintain warranty coverage
  • You need to upgrade or modify your home's gas supply or electrical service

Bottom line: The complexity, safety concerns, and code requirements for tankless water heaters make professional installation the right choice for almost all homeowners. The $1,500-2,500 installation cost is worthwhile for safe, compliant, and warrantied installation.

Code Considerations

Tankless water heater installation is heavily regulated and typically requires permits and multiple inspections:

  • Permits: Required in virtually all jurisdictions for gas and electrical work. Costs typically $100-300.
  • Gas Line Work: Must be performed by licensed gas fitters. Requires pressure testing and inspection.
  • Electrical Work: High-amperage circuits require licensed electricians in most areas. Multiple inspections required.
  • Venting Requirements: Must follow manufacturer specifications and International Fuel Gas Code (IFGC) requirements for clearances from windows, doors, and air intakes.
  • Combustion Air: Adequate combustion air supply is mandatory for safe operation.
  • Temperature and Pressure Relief: Required on all water heaters, must discharge to safe location.
  • Earthquake Straps: Required in seismic zones to secure the unit to the wall.
  • Carbon Monoxide Detectors: Required near fuel-burning appliances in most jurisdictions.
  • Minimum Clearances: Must maintain specified clearances from combustible materials.

Maintenance Tips

Regular Maintenance Is Critical

  • Annually: Flush the heat exchanger with descaling solution (vinegar or commercial descaler) to remove mineral buildup
  • Annually: Clean or replace the inlet sediment filter
  • Annually: Check the air filter on the combustion air intake (gas models)
  • Every 2-3 years: Have a professional inspect the burner, heat exchanger, and venting system
  • As needed: Clear any debris from the vent termination outside

Hard Water Areas Need Extra Attention

In areas with very hard water (15+ grains per gallon), consider flushing every 6 months or installing a water softener. Scale buildup is the primary enemy of tankless water heaters, restricting water flow through narrow heat exchanger passages and dramatically reducing efficiency and lifespan.

Monitor for Problems

  • Temperature fluctuations - May indicate scale buildup or inadequate gas supply
  • Error codes on display - Consult manual for meaning and solutions
  • Unusual noises - May indicate flame problems or sediment accumulation
  • Reduced flow rate - Usually indicates clogged filters or heat exchanger

Cost Estimate

Equipment Costs

  • Gas tankless water heater (whole house): $800-1,500
  • Electric tankless water heater (whole house): $500-1,200
  • Point-of-use electric tankless: $150-400

Installation Costs

  • Gas line upgrade: $500-1,500
  • Venting system: $300-600
  • Electrical work (gas models): $200-400
  • Electrical panel upgrade (electric models): $1,000-3,000
  • Professional installation labor: $500-1,200
  • Permits and inspections: $100-300
  • Sediment filter and isolation valves: $100-200
  • Total professional installation: $2,500-4,500

Operating Costs and Savings

  • Energy savings vs tank heater: $100-300 per year
  • Annual maintenance: $100-150 if done professionally
  • Expected lifespan: 15-20 years vs 10-12 for tank heaters

Payback Period: Tankless water heaters typically pay for themselves in 6-12 years through energy savings, longer lifespan, and avoided replacement costs. The endless hot water and space savings are additional non-monetary benefits.

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