Well Pump Installation Guide
Professional guide for installing submersible and jet well pumps. Covers pump selection, wiring, pressure tanks, controls, and troubleshooting for reliable well water.
Estimated Time
6-12 hours
Tools Required
8 items
Materials Needed
9 items
Installing or replacing a well pump restores reliable water supply to rural and suburban homes that rely on private wells. Well pumps are the heart of your water system, operating silently underground or in pump houses to deliver water whenever you turn on a faucet.
Well pump replacement is one of the more challenging DIY plumbing projects, requiring specialized equipment and knowledge of well systems. Submersible pumps (most common) sit deep in the well casing, while jet pumps (older systems) mount above ground. Most homeowners can handle jet pump replacement, but submersible pumps often require professional equipment.
This guide covers both submersible and jet pump installation basics, helping you understand the process and decide whether to tackle it yourself or hire a professional. Proper installation ensures decades of reliable service and protects your investment in well infrastructure.
Safety Precautions
- Turn off power to the pump at the circuit breaker and verify it's off with a voltage tester before beginning work
- Well pumps are heavy - submersible pumps with attached piping can weigh 100+ pounds and require lifting equipment
- Use extreme caution when working around open well casings - falling into a well is potentially fatal
- Wear gloves when handling well components - sharp edges and rough casings cause cuts
- Never work alone on well pump installation - have a helper available for emergencies and heavy lifting
- Ensure proper ventilation if working in a pump house or enclosed space - pressure tanks release compressed air
- Protect the well from contamination - keep tools clean and avoid dropping anything into the well casing
- Follow local health department requirements for well work - many areas require licensed contractors for well pump installation
Tools Required
- Pipe wrench
- Wire strippers
- Voltage tester
- Torque wrench
- Rope or cable
- Pressure gauge
- Drill with bits
- Level
Materials Needed
- Well pump
- Drop pipe
- Wire and cable
- Torque arrestor
- Check valve
- Pressure tank
- Pressure switch
- Well cap
- Safety rope
Preparation
Identify Your Pump Type
Determine whether you have a submersible pump (lives inside the well casing underwater) or jet pump (mounted above ground in basement or pump house). Submersible pumps are standard for deep wells (25+ feet) and are more efficient. Jet pumps work for shallow wells (under 25 feet) and are easier to service but less reliable. Check your well depth and current pump type before ordering a replacement.
Calculate Required Pump Capacity
Size your new pump correctly by calculating your home's water demand and well depth. Measure gallons per minute (GPM) needed - typical homes need 10-15 GPM for 3-4 bathrooms. Check well recovery rate to ensure it can supply your demand. Deeper wells need higher horsepower pumps to overcome head pressure - add 0.5 HP for every 50 feet of depth beyond the first 100 feet.
Check Local Regulations
Many jurisdictions require licensed well drillers or pump installers to work on wells due to contamination risks. Contact your local health department to verify whether homeowner installation is permitted. Some areas require permits and inspections even for simple pump replacements. Wells supplying drinking water face stricter regulations than irrigation wells.
Gather Specialized Equipment
Submersible pump installation requires specialized tools most DIYers don't own. You need a pump puller or tripod hoist to lift the pump assembly (can exceed 100 pounds), torque wrench for pipe connections, pipe wrenches for 1-1/4 inch or larger pipe, sanitary lubricant for O-rings and seals, and proper wire splicing materials for electrical connections. Consider rental equipment or professional installation if you lack these tools.
Installation Steps
Shut Off Power and Remove Old Pump (Submersible)
Turn off the pump circuit breaker at your electrical panel. Verify power is off by trying to run water - the pressure tank will drain but won't refill if the pump is truly off. At the well head, use a voltage tester to confirm no power at the electrical connections before touching any wires.
Remove the well cap or seal covering the top of the well casing. Modern wells use sanitary well seals that bolt onto the casing - remove bolts carefully and lift off the seal. Older wells may have simple caps. Clean the area around the well opening to prevent debris from falling into the well during pump removal.
Identify the components extending from the well: drop pipe (carries water up), pump power cable, and safety rope. These are usually bundled together with cable ties or tape. Disconnect the drop pipe from the house plumbing where it exits the well - this connection is typically in a basement or well house. Cap the house side to prevent debris entry.
Set up a pump puller or tripod hoist over the well opening. These tools support the pump weight while you pull it up. Attach the hoist cable to the safety rope or drop pipe using appropriate fittings. Begin pulling the pump slowly - submersible pumps are heavy and awkward when full of water. Have helpers guide the pipe and cable as it emerges to prevent tangling.
Pull the pump completely from the well, continuing until the pump itself emerges from the casing. Expect water to drain from the pipe as you pull - this is normal. Once the pump is out, lay the entire assembly on clean plastic sheeting or plywood to protect it from contamination. Inspect the old pump and piping for clues about failure causes - sediment buildup, corroded pipes, or damaged electrical cables indicate specific problems.
Measure the depth the pump was installed - mark the cable or use the length of pipe as reference. New pumps should install at similar depth to ensure adequate submersion and prevent running dry. Most pumps install 10-20 feet from the bottom of the well to avoid stirring sediment while leaving room below in case water levels drop.
Pro Tips:
- Take photos before disconnecting anything - documents original configuration for reinstallation
- Count and record pipe sections as you remove them - helps verify correct installation depth for new pump
- Save the old pump to check specifications on the nameplate - ensures replacement is correct size
- Inspect the well casing interior with a flashlight while it's open - look for damage or obstructions
Warning:
- Never work around an open well without proper barriers - a fall into a well is life-threatening
- Don't drop tools or components into the well - retrieval is expensive and difficult
- Submersible pump assemblies can weigh over 100 pounds - use proper lifting equipment, not manual lifting
Prepare and Assemble New Submersible Pump
Unpack the new submersible pump and verify you have all components: pump assembly, pipe adapters, check valve, torque arrestor, electrical splice kit, and heat shrink tubing for wire connections. Read the manufacturer's instructions completely - each pump model has specific installation requirements.
Install the check valve onto the pump discharge fitting. Check valves prevent water from draining back into the well when the pump stops, protecting the pump from water hammer damage. Apply Teflon tape or pipe sealant to threads and tighten securely with a pipe wrench. Most check valves have flow direction arrows - verify they point up (toward the house).
Attach the torque arrestor above the check valve. This device prevents the pump from spinning inside the well casing when it starts and stops. Secure it according to manufacturer specifications. Then attach the first section of drop pipe to the torque arrestor, using proper pipe wrenches to tighten connections.
Connect the pump power cable to the first section of drop pipe using cable ties every 10 feet. Leave slight slack in the cable so it doesn't bear the weight of the pump - the pipe and safety rope support the weight. Route the cable along the pipe following manufacturer guidelines for proper spacing.
If using new drop pipe, assemble sections as needed to reach from the pump to above ground. Use stainless steel clamps every 10-20 feet to attach the power cable and safety rope to the pipe. Ensure connections are tight - loose pipes leak and reduce pump efficiency. Apply thread sealant to all pipe threads to prevent leaks and make future disassembly easier.
Pro Tips:
- Use stainless steel cable ties for attaching power cable - plastic ties degrade in well water over time
- Mark the cable at 10-foot intervals with permanent marker to track installation depth
- Apply anti-seize compound to stainless steel fittings - prevents galling and makes future removal possible
- Keep all components clean and away from dirt - contamination risks your drinking water supply
Warning:
- Don't over-tighten pipe connections - you'll crack the fittings; snug plus one turn is sufficient
- Verify check valve direction before final assembly - backward installation ruins pump performance
- Never use rope instead of proper safety cable - rope deteriorates in well water and fails
Lower Pump into Well and Make Connections
With the pump assembly complete, attach the lifting equipment to the safety rope or pipe. Position helpers to guide the pump and prevent cable tangling. Slowly lower the pump into the well casing, ensuring the pipe and cable feed smoothly without binding or kinking.
Lower the pump to the predetermined depth, typically 10-20 feet from the bottom of the well or submerged 20+ feet below the lowest expected water level. Mark this depth on your pipe or cable. The pump must remain submerged at all times during operation - running dry destroys submersible pumps in minutes.
Once the pump reaches proper depth, secure the drop pipe to the well seal or well cap. Most sanitary well seals have a compression fitting that grips the pipe and supports its weight. Tighten this fitting securely - it bears the entire weight of the pump assembly. Verify the pipe cannot slip down into the well.
Feed the power cable through the well seal's cable port. Modern seals have rubber grommets that seal around the cable preventing insect or small animal entry. Route the cable to your pump controller or pressure switch location. Leave some slack in the cable near the well head - this allows for thermal expansion and contraction.
Connect the drop pipe to your house plumbing at the point where it enters from the well. Use appropriate adapters and fittings to transition from the drop pipe size to your house plumbing. Install a union or disconnect fitting here - this allows future disconnection without cutting pipes. Ensure all connections are tight and properly sealed.
Install or reconnect the pressure switch and pressure tank if you disconnected them. The pressure switch typically mounts near the pressure tank with a pipe connection to sense system pressure. Adjust the switch to standard settings (cut-in 30 PSI, cut-out 50 PSI) or per manufacturer specifications.
Make electrical connections at the pump control box or pressure switch following the pump manufacturer's wiring diagram exactly. Submersible pumps typically use 230V power with specific wire colors - black to black, red to red, green or bare to ground. Use appropriate wire nuts or terminals and secure all connections in a waterproof junction box.
Pro Tips:
- Install a pressure gauge visible from where you'll turn on the pump - lets you monitor system startup
- Consider adding a pump control box with overload protection - protects expensive pump from electrical damage
- Label the circuit breaker clearly as 'Well Pump' for future reference
- Take photos of the completed electrical connections before closing junction boxes
Warning:
- Never energize the pump until it's fully submerged and plumbing is complete - dry running destroys pumps instantly
- Verify all electrical connections match the pump's voltage and amperage requirements before turning on power
- Don't use standard wire nuts in wet locations - use waterproof connectors appropriate for well applications
Prime System, Test, and Verify Operation
Before energizing the pump, verify the system is ready for startup. Check that all plumbing connections are tight, electrical connections are secure and protected, the pressure tank has proper air precharge (typically 2 PSI below pump cut-in pressure), and all valves in the system are open.
For submersible pumps, priming is usually automatic since the pump sits underwater. However, the piping from the pump to the house needs to fill with water. Turn on power to the pump at the circuit breaker. The pump should start immediately if pressure is below the cut-in setting.
Monitor the pressure gauge as the system fills. You should see pressure rising steadily. It may take several minutes for water to travel from the well to the pressure tank and through the house plumbing. Listen for unusual sounds - properly operating pumps are nearly silent, with just the sound of water moving through pipes.
Once pressure reaches the cut-out setting (typically 50 PSI), the pressure switch should click off and the pump should stop. If the pump doesn't stop, turn off power immediately and check pressure switch adjustment and wiring. Never let pumps run continuously beyond their rated duty cycle.
Open several faucets in the house to draw water and test the system. Initial water may sputter as air purges from lines - this is normal. Let water run until flow is steady and clear. Check water pressure at fixtures - should be adequate and steady. If pressure is low, verify pump is sized correctly for your well depth and household demand.
Watch the pressure gauge as you run water. Pressure should drop as water flows, then the pump should kick on when it reaches cut-in pressure. After you close faucets, the pump should refill the pressure tank and shut off at cut-out pressure. This cycle confirms proper operation.
Return to the well head and verify no leaks at pipe connections. Check the well seal to ensure it's properly sealed and no water is leaking around pipe or cable penetrations. Inspect all visible plumbing for leaks. Check the pump control box or junction box to verify it's dry and properly sealed.
Monitor the system for the first 24-48 hours. Check periodically that the pump is cycling normally, pressure remains stable when not using water, and there are no leaks or unusual noises. If everything operates correctly, the installation is complete. Have your well water tested by a certified lab to verify installation didn't introduce contamination.
Pro Tips:
- Keep a log of pump run time during initial testing - excessive runtime indicates problems with sizing or well recovery
- Test water at the well head first, then at house fixtures - confirms any contamination source location
- Install a hour meter on the pump circuit to track runtime - helps predict maintenance needs
- Schedule well water testing 1-2 weeks after installation to ensure water quality remains safe
Warning:
- If the pump runs constantly without building pressure, turn it off - indicates pump not submerged or severe leak
- Don't assume water is safe after installation - testing confirms no contamination from installation process
- If you smell chlorine or notice cloudy water, the well may have been contaminated during installation - call health department
Common Mistakes to Avoid
- Installing pump at incorrect depth - too shallow runs dry during low water, too deep stirs sediment and damages pump
- Not using proper torque arrestor - pump spins in casing and damages power cable over time
- Reversing check valve direction - allows water hammer and backflow that destroy pump components
- Using undersized drop pipe - restricts flow and reduces system performance despite adequate pump capacity
- Failing to properly secure drop pipe to well seal - pipe slips into well taking pump with it
- Not leaving slack in power cable - tight cable bears pump weight instead of safety rope and fails
- Skipping pressure tank precharge check - improper precharge causes short cycling and premature pump failure
- Installing pump too close to well bottom - pump intake sucks sediment causing wear and clogging
- Using non-stainless hardware in well - galvanized components corrode in months and fail
- Not testing water after installation - misses contamination introduced during pump work
Tips and Tricks
- Install a pump saver or motor protector - monitors electrical current and shuts pump off if running dry or overloaded
- Add a pressure tank sized for your system - larger tanks reduce pump cycling frequency and extend pump life
- Keep detailed records of installation - pump depth, pipe length, electrical specifications, and installation date
- Install an inline filter after the pressure tank - catches sediment before it reaches fixtures and appliances
- Consider a variable frequency drive for high-volume systems - smooths motor starts and reduces electrical stress
- Mark the well cap with pump specifications and installation date for future reference
- Take water samples before and after installation - documents any changes in water quality
- Install a cutoff switch that prevents pump operation if pressure tank is waterlogged - protects pump from damage
When to Call a Professional
Hire a professional well pump installer if:
- Your local health department requires licensed contractors for well pump work - DIY installation violates regulations
- The well is deeper than 200 feet or requires a pump over 1 HP - specialized equipment and expertise needed
- You lack proper lifting equipment - submersible pumps assemblies weigh 100+ pounds and need tripods or hoists
- The well casing is damaged or deteriorating - repairs require well drilling equipment and licensing
- You're installing a new well or drilling operations - this requires licensed well drillers in all jurisdictions
- Electrical work involves complex control systems, variable frequency drives, or 3-phase power - requires electrician expertise
- The well produces very low flow or recovery - may need professional assessment of well capacity and pump sizing
- You're uncomfortable working with 230V electrical systems - mistakes are dangerous and damage expensive equipment
- The pump is in a difficult location like deep pit or confined space - professionals have confined space safety equipment
- You need to upgrade the entire well system including tank, pressure switch, and controls - comprehensive upgrades need professional design
Code Considerations
Well pump installation must meet local health codes and regulations:
- Licensing Requirements: Many jurisdictions require licensed well drillers or pump installers for all well work including pump replacement
- Permit Requirements: Well work typically requires permits from health departments to ensure safe drinking water
- Sanitary Well Seal: Modern codes require vermin-proof well seals instead of simple caps to prevent contamination
- Electrical Codes: Pump electrical installations must meet NEC requirements for outdoor/wet locations
- Backflow Prevention: Some codes require backflow preventers where wells connect to any pressurized systems
- Water Testing: Post-installation water testing may be required to verify no contamination occurred
- Disinfection Requirements: Many codes require well disinfection after opening the well for pump work
- Minimum Submersion: Codes specify minimum pump submersion depth to prevent dry running
- Cable and Pipe Support: Requirements for proper support intervals and materials used in wells
- Wellhead Protection: Codes may specify minimum wellhead elevation above ground to prevent surface water contamination
Maintenance Tips
Regular Maintenance Schedule
- Monthly: Check pressure gauge readings - unusual pressures indicate pump or system problems
- Quarterly: Test pressure switch operation - verify pump starts and stops at correct pressures
- Annually: Test well water quality for bacteria and chemical contaminants - ensures safe drinking water
- Every 2-3 years: Inspect visible components - pressure tank, control box, well seal for deterioration
- Every 5 years: Check pressure tank precharge and condition - waterlogged tanks damage pumps
- Every 10-15 years: Consider submersible pump replacement preventively - pumps typically last 10-20 years
Performance Monitoring
- Runtime monitoring: Track pump runtime with hour meter - increasing runtime indicates declining well yield or pump problems
- Pressure patterns: Consistent pressure indicates healthy system - pressure fluctuations signal problems
- Cycle frequency: Monitor how often pump starts - short cycling indicates tank or pressure switch issues
- Water quality: Watch for sediment or color changes - indicates well or pump problems developing
Common Issues and Solutions
- Pump won't start: Check circuit breaker, pressure switch adjustment, control box, and electrical connections
- Pump runs constantly: Check for major leaks, verify pump isn't running dry, test pressure switch
- Low water pressure: Check pressure tank precharge, verify pump size adequate, inspect for leaks reducing pressure
- Short cycling: Check tank precharge, test pressure switch, verify check valve working properly
- Sediment in water: Pump may be too close to well bottom or well needs development to remove sediment
- Pump trips breaker: Indicates electrical problem, pump damage, or pump running dry - requires immediate professional attention
Preventive Care
- Water softener maintenance: If you have hard water, maintain softener to protect pump from mineral buildup
- Lightning protection: Install surge protectors on pump circuit - lightning strikes damage pump controls
- Winter protection: Ensure pump house or well pit has adequate heating to prevent freezing
- Record keeping: Maintain log of pump runtime, pressure readings, and service work - helps predict problems
Cost Estimate
Professional Installation Costs
- Submersible pump installation (shallow well under 100'): $800-1,500 including pump and labor
- Submersible pump installation (deep well 100-300'): $1,200-2,500 including pump and labor
- Jet pump installation or replacement: $500-1,200 including pump and labor
- Complete well system upgrade: $1,500-4,000 including pump, pressure tank, controls, and professional installation
- Emergency pump replacement service: $1,500-3,000 for same-day or weekend service
DIY Equipment Costs
- 3/4 HP submersible pump for shallow well: $400-800 depending on quality and features
- 1 HP submersible pump for medium depth well: $600-1,200 for quality pump with warranty
- 1.5-2 HP submersible pump for deep well: $800-1,800 for high-capacity professional-grade pump
- Jet pump (1 HP): $300-600 for shallow or convertible deep well jet pump
- Drop pipe (100 feet of 1-1/4" pipe): $150-300 for polyethylene or galvanized steel
- Pump control box: $100-250 for quality control with motor protection features
- Pressure tank (20-40 gallon): $150-350 depending on size and quality
- Electrical components (wire, connectors, conduit): $50-150 depending on distance and complexity
- Check valve and fittings: $30-80 for quality brass or stainless components
- Torque arrestor: $40-80 for submersible pump installations
- Safety rope and cable clamps: $20-50 for stainless steel components
Tool and Equipment Costs
- Pump puller or tripod hoist rental: $50-150 per day for equipment capable of lifting 150+ pounds
- Pipe wrenches (large): $40-80 for 18" to 24" wrenches if you don't own them
- Voltage tester: $15-40 for non-contact voltage detector
- Torque wrench: $30-80 if needed for pipe connections
- Total tool investment: $100-250 if you need to purchase all tools, or $50-150 rental cost
Total DIY Cost Estimate
- Basic shallow well jet pump replacement: $350-700 including pump and materials
- Standard submersible pump replacement (100-200' well): $700-1,500 including pump, drop pipe, and materials
- Deep well submersible with system upgrade: $1,200-2,500 including pump, tank, controls, and equipment rental
Cost of Poor Installation
- Pump running dry and burning out: $400-1,500 to replace damaged pump
- Well contamination from improper installation: $500-2,000 for disinfection, testing, and possible pump replacement
- Dropped pump irretrievable in well: $2,000-5,000+ to retrieve or abandon and drill new well
- Electrical damage from improper wiring: $300-800 to replace control box and repair wiring
- Pressure tank damage from incorrect setup: $150-400 for tank replacement
Long-Term Value
- Submersible pump lifespan: 10-20 years with proper installation and maintenance
- Jet pump lifespan: 8-15 years depending on water quality and usage
- System reliability: Properly installed pump provides decades of trouble-free water supply
- Water quality protection: Correct installation prevents contamination and ensures safe drinking water
- Property value: Reliable well system with new pump adds value and buyer confidence
Potential Savings: DIY installation saves $400-1,000 in labor costs for standard pump replacements. Professional installation typically costs $800-1,500 just for labor, while capable DIYers can complete the work for equipment rental and materials only. However, consider the risks - improper installation can damage $800-1,500 pumps immediately or contaminate your well requiring expensive remediation. Many areas require licensed installers, eliminating DIY as an option. For those legally permitted to do the work with adequate equipment and experience, DIY installation provides significant savings while ensuring water system reliability. Proper installation extends pump life to its full 15-20 year potential, avoiding premature replacements that cost $1,500-3,000 every few years with poor installation.
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